the clients take their seats...
at the Thom Browne salon...
they say the show waits for no one...
but the show waits for them...
six salons...
through corridors and double doors...
from look 1 to look 34...
it’s raining men...
in tweeds of all colors...
grey with yellow and green...
blue with pink and light blue...
all the colors together...
classic tailoring...
the whole package...
in new proportions...
elongated... shrunken... oversized...
jackets... trousers... skirts...
elevated fabric making... masculine tailoring...
jockstraps...
holding it all up...
tweeds custom developed in the south of France—some crafted with chenille, denim, and grosgrain ribbon, others with leather, seersucker tulle, and lace. multi-color pouf tweed is the most time consuming, with four artisans setting the warp. ribbons are hand-placed and cut every time the shuttle weaves through the loom.
classically feminine fabrics are shown in classically masculine shapes. upended for a cowboy, a surfer, a sailor, and a tennis player. athletic vitality with suggestive underpinnings. the ultimate masculine garment: the jockstrap. embroideries focus on the ultimate preppy symbol: the anchor, in full bullions and satin stitches, with engineered distressed yarns.
elongated sport coats and cropped skirts, mini shorts and long trench coats, commanding shoulders and low-rise waists. dropped crotches, sleeveless silhouettes, and body-skimming darts. components of Thom Browne core classics in summer cotton twills and grosgrains. some tailoring in completely new and custom internal construction: sloped shoulders and molded set-in shoulders. trompe l'oeil skirts masquerade as shorts and trousers, with pleats of silk-tie jacquard. attachés and penny loafers meet cowboy boots and hector bags of every size and color.